Over the past 76 years, Pakistani fashion has evolved in much the same way as the country—and its people.
The past seven decades have witnessed the evolution of cultural norms, with accompanying styles and trends to match. Whether traditional or modern, fashion has all reflected the at-times turbulent history of the country, highlighting legendary photographer Bill Cunnigham’s words: “Fashion is the armor to survive the reality of everyday life.”
Following the violence of Partition in 1947, the 1950s saw the people of Pakistan focusing on rebuilding themselves as a nation. Emphasis was placed on Pakistaniat, leaving little room for the experimentation that is the hallmark of memorable style. This all changed with the 1960s, and their accompanying economic boom. With more financial freedom and security, Pakistanis were free to find new means to express themselves—and their status—through their fashion choices. The decade saw women embracing puffy hairstyles, vibrant outfits and winged eyeliner. They would wear high neck kurtas and sarees made from cotton and silk. Western influence also started to emerge among “high society”, with the embracing of gowns, cigarette pants and sleeveless shirts.
The 1970s
Much like the rest of the world, the 1970s marked a time of upheaval in Pakistan—and its fashion. The hippie trail saw the country playing host to a new type of visitor, who brought with them flared pants, chunky jewelry and vibrant, floral prints. Unlike the styles of the ‘60s, the styles of the ‘70s were spearheaded by the country’s youth, who embraced the new and bold. However, this did not mean the fashion of yesteryear were abandoned entirely; sarees and the ubiquitous shalwar-kurta continued their dominance, especially among people who could not afford to be at the forefront of fashion.
The 1980s
The 1980s proved the most transformative for Pakistani fashion—and not in a good way. The Islamization enforced by Ziaul Haq’s regime forced many to abandon Western styles, returning to the conservative South Asian fashions of their parents’ generation. However, those same restrictions gave rise to resistance through fashion: western clothing began to symbolize rebellion against military rule and was embraced by those on the frontlines of protests calling for a return to democratic rule.
For most, however, the decade was a period of experimentation that melded modernity with tradition, simultaneously appeasing conservative elements and a desire for evolution. A key proponent of this was Benazir Bhutto, the Muslim world’s first woman prime minister, who adorned herself in stylish garb that was nonetheless purely Pakistani.
The 1990s-2000s
The 1990s and 2000s marked a significant shift for Pakistani fashion, developing an independent identity distinct from Indian influence. Western style once again rose in prominence, with knee-length kameezes and shorter dresses in vogue. Churidar pyjamas and fitted clothing became common, as designers experimented with both traditional and western styles, with an emphasis on fusing them into a cohesive whole. The era, shaped once again by Western influence after the U.S. invasion of Afghanistan and Pakistan’s entry into the War on Terror, also saw men embracing change, abandoning traditional attire for Western clothing and sherwanis for suits and ties. The entire era emphasized creativity, helping the people of Pakistan differentiate themselves from the larger umbrella of South Asia as a whole, and developing their own unique identity.
Modern era
The past 14 years—from 2010 through 2024—have seen further experimenting from Pakistani designers, with even more emphasis on fashion fusion. Traditional clothing, such as lehengas and sarees, have found new life with stylish cuts and elaborate embroidery. At the same time, modern clothing such as blouses and fitted trousers have become more common. Highlighting the old adage of everything old is new again, palazzo suits and maxi dresses have managed to make their way back into Pakistan’s fashion as well. Accessories such as hand-painted khussas and tassels are at the forefront of style, adding modern touches to traditional designs.
Over the years, Pakistani fashion has evolved beyond just clothes, reminding people of the past while offering insights into the country’s future. In shaping, and in turn being shaped, by prevailing cultural mores, the fashion preferences of Pakistanis prove that respecting tradition can go hand-in-hand with change and creativity.